Walking has been difficult today because yesterday I injured my heel and as a result I have a large hole in it and it is very sore.
I was plodding along behind Jeremy at a very slow pace and so we only managed to do 15 km or so today.
For the first part of the day we were walking up and down some quite steep little hills on the border of the forested region of the sandy plain where we have just walked from. The change from pine forest to deciduous woods is quite marked and the heat of the day is different in the sorts of woods as well because evergreen trees seem to amplify the heat whereas deciduous trees shade you instead.
Almost nothing remarkable has happened today and unfortunately we could not get to see the badgers that were expecting to last night
Thursday, 21 August 2014
A new me
Something has happened to me that is most unexpected. For the first time in many years I have no pain in my innards and none in my back. I feel utterly amazing as if twenty years has been given back to me somehow.
The steady plod, plod, plod of walking for hundreds of miles has worn away at the years of fat that has weighed me down in so many ways and I feel physically renewed and invigorated. Just for fun I did thirty press ups, just for fun I ran, something that has dogged my dreams for years, just for fun I grabbed a tree brach to do pull ups and just for fun I did sit ups.
The walking meditation part of my journey is more difficult to pin down though. I have been practicing meditation techniques to clear my mind of the thoughts that have caused me so much pain. Walking in this heat needs a hat so I have a wide brimmed Australian style hat that obscures much of the view ahead for much of the day. I have to force myself to look up to see the road and so my point of view encompasses hat brim, road, shoes and diminished, ha greatly diminished belly.
I have no requirement to do anything except to walk. How far I walk is determined by Jeremy's cajoling and by the state of my feet. I eat when I want to eat. I drink when I want to drink and I answer to no one for times, schedules, requirements or demands. This is the only way I feel I can exist at the moment because all else is too much and I dissolve into almost catatonic depression again if I allow myself to brood.
Will the therapy of the road do as much for my mind as for my body? Who can say? I wish it would.
The steady plod, plod, plod of walking for hundreds of miles has worn away at the years of fat that has weighed me down in so many ways and I feel physically renewed and invigorated. Just for fun I did thirty press ups, just for fun I ran, something that has dogged my dreams for years, just for fun I grabbed a tree brach to do pull ups and just for fun I did sit ups.
The walking meditation part of my journey is more difficult to pin down though. I have been practicing meditation techniques to clear my mind of the thoughts that have caused me so much pain. Walking in this heat needs a hat so I have a wide brimmed Australian style hat that obscures much of the view ahead for much of the day. I have to force myself to look up to see the road and so my point of view encompasses hat brim, road, shoes and diminished, ha greatly diminished belly.
I have no requirement to do anything except to walk. How far I walk is determined by Jeremy's cajoling and by the state of my feet. I eat when I want to eat. I drink when I want to drink and I answer to no one for times, schedules, requirements or demands. This is the only way I feel I can exist at the moment because all else is too much and I dissolve into almost catatonic depression again if I allow myself to brood.
Will the therapy of the road do as much for my mind as for my body? Who can say? I wish it would.
Wildlife
This evening we are camped in another vineyard near to the small town of Houga. The ground is mowed as flat as a bowling green and well kept and nearby there is a rift in the ground with a great badger set at the bottom. The ground around the set is freshly turned so it is active but on a road nearby I saw the sadly mangled corpse of another badger. One wonders if they were from the same family.
This morning when I awoke there was a pile of fresh deer droppings right next to my tent so the beast must have been no more than a metre from my tent in the night. The night before that Jeremy reported encountering several hedgehogs as he went out for a pee in the night and the signs of boars, and indeed their sounds of grunts and crashing about in the maize fields are evident all over.
In the forest we passed a few days ago the trees were filled with the noise of either very big crickets or possibly cicadas although I wasn't lucky enough to see any of those magnificent bugs. Even now I can hear grasshoppers and frogs.
We have seen many deer at varying distances. They usually look at us curiously for a few moments and bound away, white tails flashing an alarm.
This countryside is filled to bursting with life that takes so little effort to see when one walks but flying past in a car presents so few opportunities to see and enjoy these sights and sounds that it would seem a shame to do it now.
This morning when I awoke there was a pile of fresh deer droppings right next to my tent so the beast must have been no more than a metre from my tent in the night. The night before that Jeremy reported encountering several hedgehogs as he went out for a pee in the night and the signs of boars, and indeed their sounds of grunts and crashing about in the maize fields are evident all over.
In the forest we passed a few days ago the trees were filled with the noise of either very big crickets or possibly cicadas although I wasn't lucky enough to see any of those magnificent bugs. Even now I can hear grasshoppers and frogs.
We have seen many deer at varying distances. They usually look at us curiously for a few moments and bound away, white tails flashing an alarm.
This countryside is filled to bursting with life that takes so little effort to see when one walks but flying past in a car presents so few opportunities to see and enjoy these sights and sounds that it would seem a shame to do it now.
Resin
Jeremy has gone all Ray Mears on me harvesting chunks of pine resin to make smudge pots to ward off mosquito hordes. Given the way this stuff burns I wouldn't like to see a pine forest going up from close quarters.
The resin burns with an aroma of pine and a dark sooty smoke that the mozzies run from at top speed.
Today has been un eventful with lots of walking along long, hot, pine forested roads and very little contact with people until later in the evening. Last evening we camped near to a cemetery in Losse. A nearby building had what I calculated to be approximately three hundred and eighty kilowatts of solar panel collectors on the roof. The sunshine here is big business. There was a field of the most beautiful wild flowers all of purple, white and yellow that made a lovely sight first thing.
The forests are dotted with big reservoirs or tanks of water for the use of fire personell in case of emergency. One we saw was a huge green bag in a fenced area.
The resin burns with an aroma of pine and a dark sooty smoke that the mozzies run from at top speed.
Today has been un eventful with lots of walking along long, hot, pine forested roads and very little contact with people until later in the evening. Last evening we camped near to a cemetery in Losse. A nearby building had what I calculated to be approximately three hundred and eighty kilowatts of solar panel collectors on the roof. The sunshine here is big business. There was a field of the most beautiful wild flowers all of purple, white and yellow that made a lovely sight first thing.
The forests are dotted with big reservoirs or tanks of water for the use of fire personell in case of emergency. One we saw was a huge green bag in a fenced area.
Tuesday, 19 August 2014
Idyllic ham
We walked on into Lot et Garrone through pine forests and along superheated straight roads when we came upon an idyllic scene. A wide sandy river with crystal clear waters flowed from left to right and looking down from the bridge we saw a wide clear grassy area with a few trees for shade. It was too tempting not to take advantage so we called it a day on the walking and went to sit by the river.
I was so tempted by the water that I drank it, it was cool and neutral. Jeremy said that I would likely suffer a bad belly but I was fine. We paddled about, Jeremy washed and we just lazed about for hours.
Jeremy went exploring and returned saying that a place up the road was selling ham and suggested that I go get some for tea. Off I went.
The sandy road wound through yet another Myst like landscape with sparse pine trees on either side. The air itself had a blue haze in it and smelled of pine resin in the heat. I know why the locals are so paranoid about fire as it seemed that even the air was an explosive mixture.
I walked for a good mile along this sandy road until I found an oasis of a house well kept and postcard neat in amongst the pines. I politely asked the proprietress about the ham (Jambon) whereupon she laughed and said it was the name of the house. Not an offer of porky wares. I left empty-handed.
We slept badly overnight as a local family had a loud party until the early hours so we packed late and bade farewell to the lovely river glen.
I was so tempted by the water that I drank it, it was cool and neutral. Jeremy said that I would likely suffer a bad belly but I was fine. We paddled about, Jeremy washed and we just lazed about for hours.
Jeremy went exploring and returned saying that a place up the road was selling ham and suggested that I go get some for tea. Off I went.
The sandy road wound through yet another Myst like landscape with sparse pine trees on either side. The air itself had a blue haze in it and smelled of pine resin in the heat. I know why the locals are so paranoid about fire as it seemed that even the air was an explosive mixture.
I walked for a good mile along this sandy road until I found an oasis of a house well kept and postcard neat in amongst the pines. I politely asked the proprietress about the ham (Jambon) whereupon she laughed and said it was the name of the house. Not an offer of porky wares. I left empty-handed.
We slept badly overnight as a local family had a loud party until the early hours so we packed late and bade farewell to the lovely river glen.
More forest
The forest that we are walking through is one of the largest wooded areas in France and will take us three days to cross. Today has been day two. Much of it is cultivated pine forest with trees in serried rows that stretch for miles. In other places the trees have been harvested leaving behind great swathes of bare churned up sand with a few pine roots scattered about. It seems that cutting the trees is less favoured than uprooting them bodily with great hydraulic grapples.
We stopped to ask for water at a house we passed and were welcomed in, given the desired water and cold fruit juices by a lovely couple. The gentleman's accent was impenetrable and terse. He called bread "peng"
I had got my shoes wet falling into the river the previous day and so I walked in a pair of poorly engineered sandals today. My feet ache horribly as a result, I hope that the shoes are all dry tomorrow.
We stopped to ask for water at a house we passed and were welcomed in, given the desired water and cold fruit juices by a lovely couple. The gentleman's accent was impenetrable and terse. He called bread "peng"
I had got my shoes wet falling into the river the previous day and so I walked in a pair of poorly engineered sandals today. My feet ache horribly as a result, I hope that the shoes are all dry tomorrow.
After the storm
I walked for twenty kilometres or so carrying the bag and pushing the wheelbarrow. The intense stabbing pain al across my back and right side I had suffered for the last few days has abated to a dull ache just like the first kidney stone I passed. This one had obviously done some damage on the way but I feel so much better now.
If I had a new knee I would feel fifteen years younger.
We are walking up from the Gironde onto the little hills that border the valley where grapes are less common and other more familiar crops such as maize or sunflower are growing.
We camped in a little pine forest where the ground was terribly lumpy so I used the hammock strung between two sturdy pine saplings that stood in a platoon of their comrades. I got off to sleep without a problem but awoke as I was precipitated to the ground by the poor quality stitching giving out in one seam. Some nearby boars learned a lot of English swear words that night.
After a fitful night on lumpy ground I rose late and resolved to rid myself of the wheelbarrow once and for all. Carrying the bag was a must and attempting to push the barrow at the same time was punishing. Jeremy wasn't keen that I give up the barrow but I was adamant and after repacking the bags we left it for someone to find and walked on. Needless to say, progress was slow.
Eventually we came to the town of Bazas where we bought a few supplies and walked south for a kilometre or so until we sat to eat a quick sandwhich. As we ate a skinny fellow with a pack and walking sticks turned up. He had a scallop shell on a string around his neck. Our first pilgrim acquaintance. Leonard, a Dutchman who had walked from Amsterdam, shared a coffee and some food with us while we watched ominous storm clouds gather overhead.
We were hit with a mini deluge and had to run for cover in the lee of a nearby house and we discussed camping and the minimum of weight he carried which was a meagre sixteen kilos. I decided to take advice on what to keep and what to throw away from his greater experience which was more than 1400 kilometres so far. After throwing out a lot of stuff that seemed unnecessary my pack weighed twenty two kilos with a couple of litres of water on board. It was much easier to carry!
In return for his consulting skills, Jeremy fixed Leonard's tent with spare parts salvaged from the one destroyed by the storm a few nights ago. Leonard suggested that we all camp together that evening and share a meal so we walked off to find a spot. The skinny little Dutch guy was a full on walking machine! He raced off ahead of us and was gone before we could blink. We caught up with him as he waited to collect water from a house some time and a few kilometres later.
We stayed in the yard of an empty farmhouse and used the well to get water to wash with. I had an invigoratingly cold shower before supper that was leek and potato soup (knorr) with fried saussicon, Camembert and crunchy bread.
I slept very badly due to the incessant hooting of a very busy owl and later what sounded like the hounds of hell because it was the first day of the hunting season. Breakfast coffee made with sweet condensed milk was had by all and we filled up on cheese and sausage before the first stretch.
We were utterly outpaced by Leonard again even though he complained of bad feet and we were left to follow in his wake all the way to the next town where we found him sitting eating a baguette and sardines. The town had no baker of its own and a stall had been set up by the baker from a few miles awa so we bought croissant, apple turnover and bread and ate a second breakfast of sardines and chocolate. You may have noticed that we no longer give a hoot about calories except to ask where the next ones are coming from.
Sadly we parted ways with our friend Leonard who's route was taking him to Santiago via the westerly road as we continued straight south. What a lovely fellow and companion if only for a day.
If I had a new knee I would feel fifteen years younger.
We are walking up from the Gironde onto the little hills that border the valley where grapes are less common and other more familiar crops such as maize or sunflower are growing.
We camped in a little pine forest where the ground was terribly lumpy so I used the hammock strung between two sturdy pine saplings that stood in a platoon of their comrades. I got off to sleep without a problem but awoke as I was precipitated to the ground by the poor quality stitching giving out in one seam. Some nearby boars learned a lot of English swear words that night.
After a fitful night on lumpy ground I rose late and resolved to rid myself of the wheelbarrow once and for all. Carrying the bag was a must and attempting to push the barrow at the same time was punishing. Jeremy wasn't keen that I give up the barrow but I was adamant and after repacking the bags we left it for someone to find and walked on. Needless to say, progress was slow.
Eventually we came to the town of Bazas where we bought a few supplies and walked south for a kilometre or so until we sat to eat a quick sandwhich. As we ate a skinny fellow with a pack and walking sticks turned up. He had a scallop shell on a string around his neck. Our first pilgrim acquaintance. Leonard, a Dutchman who had walked from Amsterdam, shared a coffee and some food with us while we watched ominous storm clouds gather overhead.
We were hit with a mini deluge and had to run for cover in the lee of a nearby house and we discussed camping and the minimum of weight he carried which was a meagre sixteen kilos. I decided to take advice on what to keep and what to throw away from his greater experience which was more than 1400 kilometres so far. After throwing out a lot of stuff that seemed unnecessary my pack weighed twenty two kilos with a couple of litres of water on board. It was much easier to carry!
In return for his consulting skills, Jeremy fixed Leonard's tent with spare parts salvaged from the one destroyed by the storm a few nights ago. Leonard suggested that we all camp together that evening and share a meal so we walked off to find a spot. The skinny little Dutch guy was a full on walking machine! He raced off ahead of us and was gone before we could blink. We caught up with him as he waited to collect water from a house some time and a few kilometres later.
We stayed in the yard of an empty farmhouse and used the well to get water to wash with. I had an invigoratingly cold shower before supper that was leek and potato soup (knorr) with fried saussicon, Camembert and crunchy bread.
I slept very badly due to the incessant hooting of a very busy owl and later what sounded like the hounds of hell because it was the first day of the hunting season. Breakfast coffee made with sweet condensed milk was had by all and we filled up on cheese and sausage before the first stretch.
We were utterly outpaced by Leonard again even though he complained of bad feet and we were left to follow in his wake all the way to the next town where we found him sitting eating a baguette and sardines. The town had no baker of its own and a stall had been set up by the baker from a few miles awa so we bought croissant, apple turnover and bread and ate a second breakfast of sardines and chocolate. You may have noticed that we no longer give a hoot about calories except to ask where the next ones are coming from.
Sadly we parted ways with our friend Leonard who's route was taking him to Santiago via the westerly road as we continued straight south. What a lovely fellow and companion if only for a day.
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